Car stereo question....

Hi folks...
I have a hafler 6 channel amp, about 20 wats per channel.
For speakers I have 5 inch 2 way focal in the doors and an old self powered alpine boxed sub 8" driver. It's amp could be dead.
I also have a precision power eq and I think the knobs control the tone but if you pull them out with a click, the knobs control crossover points.

So, I don't know how it was wired up I paid for that back on '05 or so.

The sub was powered by a Dr. Crankenstein 80 wat amp. But that seems to be dead. I can't find any blown fuses.
So my question is can I use the 6 channel hafler to power the door speakers and the sub if it's bridged correctly.

I'm thinking of getting a Bluetooth dongle and wiring it into the eq and not using a head unit at all.

I also have a hafler preamp but I'm not sure if it's worth adding in.

Since I don't know how it was wired I'm considering giving these parts to an installer and having it rewired. This is all being triggered by the death of Dr. Crankenstein amp.

I'd really like not to buy new stuff. Every time I buy stuff I don't know details about I end up buying more stuff. All this worked fine before I parked the car for 5 years. The speakers are working, the sub driver bumps with a touch from a 9 volt battery, so I know the drivers aren't faulty. The hafler is powering the doors so I know that works....now that I think of it, that hafler has 6 fuses so I could check those but only 2 channels of that are used in the doors.

The sub box is the foundation of a center console between the front seats so it's part of the architecture of the vehicle (85 vanagon) but it comes out with 4 screws, a power plug and some rca connectors..

Any thoughts ?
Thanks !

 

Back when Ver 4.0 of TFP was seriously active you would've had a five page thread.

Well, sort of . Sixty percent of the responses would've been completely off-topic banter between thread highjackers .

Sort of related...the factory radio/CD players in my 2004 Highlander is crapping out. WTH? Cheap crap only lasted 19 years !

 

Yeah...I'm thinking that too.
I'm not wanting to buy new amps but what I have is way old so, its not like they haven't served their purpose, but the haffler isn't dead so I'm keeping it going.
I'm leaning towards the Bluetooth dongle with no head unit at all.
I have a couple meat space friends who are helpful though...I'll get it figured out !

 

Here's an example of my electronics knowledge:
Find the on switch.
Activate it.
If no indication device is working, find power cord if one, make sure it's plugged in.
Try different outlet.
If device doesn't work, move on.

Oh, wait. Many years ago I did manage to remove an underdash cassette player (using stone tools ) from my car before taking it in for some long term body work.

 

Back in the 90s I used to run a two channel rockford fosgate series 1 amp bridged to 3 channel. Two front speakers and then created a third channel by bridging. Meant that the sub got a full range signal but the box I built had two sides extended so that the sub faced down. Kept eyes off of it because I had a blanket over it in the back of my Subaru wagon. Down facing helped muffle some of the higher frequencies that came through. If the amp is bridgeable I'm sure you would be fine. Watch out for overheating. You said the sub has its own amplifier but you were running another amp to it? The crankenstein?

 

Yes, the original amp on the self powered alpine sub was missing it's molex plug and I can't find a pin-out diagram so I used to have the Crancenstein driving it but it seems that that amp is dead.

So, encouraged by a co worker that I should DIY rather than pay a shop to get it working.

Your right, @omega, I watched some utube vids on bridging and I did bridge the hafler to feed the sub. It worked ! The gains on the amp and setting on the parametrics need some adjustments but it is working and sound pretty good.
It's a clumsy setup though... between eq volume, phone volume, and head unit volume it can be annoying. I don't like tapping the phone for control, you don't need to look at physical buttons once your hand is familiar with them, not true with touch screen. I prefer my eyes on the road as much as possible.

Anyway it works now so I'll live with it till I decide later if I want a Bluetooth dongle for the input or maybe a different head unit.