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Old 07-17-2003, 04:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Changing Oil in Truck

Ok, I'm not a mechanic nor do I play one on t.v., but I've always heard that changing the oil in a car is one of the easiest things to do. I have a '96 Toyota Tacoma so the pan is easy to get to. So I guess the question is, is draining the oil and replacing it all that need be done?
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Old 07-17-2003, 04:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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yes. but you should also change the filter. refer to your operators manual for exact locations of filter, plug, etc. also make sure you have a wide container to catch the oil.
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Old 07-18-2003, 06:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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When you replace the filter remember to dip your finger in fresh oil and wipe a little oil around the rubber gasket on the filter...... it seals better, and only tighten the filter by hand.... don't crank it tight with the filter wrench.
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Old 07-18-2003, 07:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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what they said.
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Old 07-21-2003, 08:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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ideally you should do this when the oil is hot. Ie drive the truck around for awhile run some errands etc .

but be careful hot oil is, well HOT!


hot oil drains more completely thus removing more of the used dirty stuff and reducing contamination of the new clean stuff.


you might think to clean \ change your air filter at the same time.

check the other fluids ie brake fluid , tranny fluid , coolant, washer fluid etc.
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Old 07-23-2003, 07:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I always change when the oil is cold, and in the oil pan (not in the engine, if you run it before). But hot works too, make sure to where leather gloves when unscrewing the bolt. Ouch.
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Old 07-24-2003, 03:43 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Do yourself a favour, get a nice oilpan for draining the used oil out. I got one from a local car store for like 10 bucks, makes life so much easier. Check all other fluids as well when doing the oil change plus I change my air filter on every other oil change. Check to see if you have grease fittings as well on ball joints and universal joints and sterring components and give it a grease job at every oil change.
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Old 07-24-2003, 10:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Take the used oil to a local auto parts store. They'll usually recycle it for you for free.

Just don't dump it down the sewer.
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Old 07-25-2003, 03:47 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Another trick is to get a large magnet from a big speaker....... and stick it to the bottom of the oilpan, all the small metal fragments (from wearing parts) will stick to the area where the magnet is attached..... A little overkill but a good trick, ideally this is done when you rebuild a motor..... just drop the magnet IN the bottom of the oilpan, Actually you can buy a magnetized oilpan plug that will do the same thing......
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Old 07-25-2003, 05:16 AM   #10 (permalink)
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There are devices that you can put on your oil filter (rings that go on the outside) that are magnetized to do the same thing as dropping a magnet into the oil pan. Much easier IMHO.
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Old 07-25-2003, 06:34 AM   #11 (permalink)
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don't forget to check your owners manual for how many quarts to put in..

also remember to put the cap back on... my brother forgot one
time and his engine got a nice oil bath..

also don't wear anything nice, including shoes... i ruined my fav pair of
sneakers....
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Old 07-26-2003, 01:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Same Guy

also remember to put the cap back on... my brother forgot one
time and his engine got a nice oil bath..

ditto, except it was my dad...hehehe
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Old 07-26-2003, 09:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Don't drain your transmission by mistake. Ok ok, I was young and stupid. My dad drained the oil, replaced the plug, the phone rang and forgot to put the new oil in. I guess he was old and stupid.
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Old 07-28-2003, 05:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ashton
Another trick is to get a large magnet from a big speaker....... and stick it to the bottom of the oilpan, all the small metal fragments (from wearing parts) will stick to the area where the magnet is attached..... A little overkill but a good trick, ideally this is done when you rebuild a motor..... just drop the magnet IN the bottom of the oilpan, Actually you can buy a magnetized oilpan plug that will do the same thing......
Many cars these days come with an oil plug that has a magnet on the end of it. If yours does(and even if it doesn't) make sure you wipe it clean before plugging it again.
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Old 07-31-2003, 09:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Any advice on how to not make such a huge mess when draining the oil? I can catch the oil coming out of the pan just fine, but the oil filter is in a hard to reach place. When it comes off, oil goes everywhere.
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Old 08-01-2003, 12:01 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Use a larger drain pan? unless of course you have one of those cars with the upside down oil filter..... or a sideways filter, then you're screwed..... you'll always make a mess.
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Old 08-01-2003, 11:28 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Location: In the garage, under the car.
You can always poke a hole in the filter with a screwdriver or nail and drain it before removing it.
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Old 08-01-2003, 11:36 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Like Ashton said up top, be sure to put a thin layer on the gasket (the roung black rubber washer on the filter where it mounts to the motor) of the new filter. ALSO BE EXTRA SURE TO SEE THAT THE GASKET OF THE OLD FILTER COMES OFF WITH THE FILTER.... IF IT WAS NOT OILED LIKE RECOMMENDED BY ASHTON, IT MAY STICK TO THE MOTOR AND NOW YOUR NEW ONE WILL CAUSE A DOUBLE-GASKET WHICH ALMOST GUARANTEES BAD LEAKING AND POTENTIAL ASSOCIATED TROUBLE!!!!
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Old 08-01-2003, 05:03 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Use a larger drain pan? unless of course you have one of those cars with the upside down oil filter..... or a sideways filter, then you're screwed..... you'll always make a mess.
Yup, it's a sideways oil filter. Guess I will continue to pay to have it done. I hate cleaning up oil mess.
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Old 08-01-2003, 11:52 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Location: cali
Quote:
Yup, it's a sideways oil filter. Guess I will continue to pay to have it done. I hate cleaning up oil mess.
cleaning it isn't bad at all. you could use some kitty litter or that tub of costco detergent to soak it up and sweep it away. pretty damn easy.

most cities offer pick up for used oil. they supposedly have a grant from the feds that pay them x amount for oil recycled. my city gave me a nice wide oil pan, when i get it full, i call the city and they have it picked up on the regular trash pick up day. talk to your city, they have lots to offer you.

if you forget to check other fluids, at least check your radiator fluid when the engine is cold. i made the mistake of overlooking it and overheated my car, warping the aluminum block, causing me to have to drive in the summer heat with the heater on cuz i was too broke to fix it. but alas, we pulled it apart, sent it to a machine shop and had it resurfaced. works great now and i know to check it always.
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Old 08-11-2003, 03:22 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I used to be a fanatic about changing my own oil and would never dream of taking it somehwere to have it done. I have to say I must be getting old because to me it is just not worth the hassle of a do-it-yourself job when the Express Lube Center down the street will do it in 10 minutes for $19.95. Even if I do it myself I will spend close to $10 on oil and filter. So I have compromised and I now have my oil changed but I stand by and make sure they do everything to the standards I would have if I were doing it at home.

The lube places and the oil advertisemnts will tell you to change your oil every 3,000 miles.... unless you are having engine poblems like worn rings that cause your car to use a lot of oil it really only needs to be changed every 5 to 6 thousand miles.

The first few oil changes on a new car are the most important becasue that is when you any matal shavings will float around in the crankcase from the interanl parts "breaking in".

Some folks will say that you don't have to change filters on every oil change but I do it anyway. What's the point of putting fresh oil in the engine if you are going to contaminate it with the stuff in the filter?
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Old 08-14-2003, 08:22 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by rst
Any advice on how to not make such a huge mess when draining the oil? I can catch the oil coming out of the pan just fine, but the oil filter is in a hard to reach place. When it comes off, oil goes everywhere.
Check out the SureDrain system by Fram -- available at most auto parts stores. It's a drain plug replacement that is actually a valve. You attach the included tube, which opens the valve, and voila -- you can direct the oil flow to the pan with no mess.

Just installed one recently -- much much easier and less messy.
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Old 08-21-2003, 08:25 PM   #23 (permalink)
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its not that hard, pretty easy if you ask me
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Old 08-22-2003, 09:40 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Just pay Jiffy Lube $29 and be done with it. By the time you buy the oil and filter, drain your old stuff, cleanup the mess and drop the old oil back at the parts store, how much time have you spent? Unless you enjoy working on cars, its the best $29 you'll spend.
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Old 08-23-2003, 02:04 AM   #25 (permalink)
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5 minutes:....throw your drain pan under and drop unscrew the plug, while that is draining out change out the oil filter, make sure the pan covers both or you'll make a mess, once the old oil is down to a trickle replace the plug and fill to your car specs (it will be in the back "service" part of the owners manual.

P.S. throw a towel down under if it's your first attempt
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Old 08-24-2003, 01:00 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Location: [insert witty play on location field here]
Quote:
Originally posted by luvsredbeaver
The lube places and the oil advertisemnts will tell you to change your oil every 3,000 miles.... unless you are having engine poblems like worn rings that cause your car to use a lot of oil it really only needs to be changed every 5 to 6 thousand miles.
I worked at a Jiffy Lube for over 4 years, and I can tell you this is completely untrue. Fast Lubes and such dont just tell you that so they can get you to come in more often...we actually got test results from the oil companies quite often about different oil types (synthetics vs. conventionals) and their breakdown patterns. If anyone wants to hear about those, say the word

First, the Oil Filter. Pretty much every oil filter is only good for about 3000 miles, and if you dont believe in this...well....its your engine, I guess. Seems like cheap insurance to me.

Second, the Oil itself. You owners manual will probably say something like "Change oil every 6000-7500 miles UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS." And then it will say "Change oil every 3000 miles UNDER SEVERE DRIVING CONDITIONS."

Severe driving conditions include: any stop-and-go driving, driving in the heat, driving in the cold, driving in the dust, frequent engine start/stops, towing/hauling. So in other words, you are only under normal driving conditions when your taking a LONG trip with nothing in the car/truck, on a 70 degree day....and you dont stop for gas LOL

Changing your oil every 3000 miles is cheap insurance for a longer lasting vehicle....anyone who tells you different is either an old man who is stuck in his ways, or just plain cheap.

Happy driving
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Old 08-24-2003, 04:11 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I think it is better to go to a oil change shop it is faster they do a better job most of thr time and you don't get dirty
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Old 08-29-2003, 10:23 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Location: cali
ey bad30th,
Quote:
I worked at a Jiffy Lube for over 4 years
i heard some rumors about the quality of oil they use at those quick lube places. are those true? i mean do they really fill with cheaper oil? i don't even know if there is such a thing as cheaper oil.

someone, who worked at one of those places, also told me that sometimes, they throw in some old oil. but his credibility was always questionable. so if you could clarify any of this, it'd be great. thanks
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Old 08-30-2003, 04:09 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Well I can tell you that (though I hate to support a company that treats their employees as shitty as they do....) Jiffy Lube DOES NOT ever use old, recycled, re-used, etc. oils. All oils used are new and the same as if you were to buy them in an AutoZone.

We did use what we called 'bulk oil' which is the exact same thing as whats in the bottles. It is technically cheaper, but thats just the cost to the owners because it is bought in bulk, not cheaper quality.

I will tell you that I have heard horror stories about Econo-Lube using recycled oil and only changing oil filters once a year or something. No thank you.

LOL if anyone else wants to know anything about their favorite national fast-lube, let me know...I dont work there anymore so I guess I have no reason to lie

good luck

Last edited by bad30th; 08-30-2003 at 04:11 PM..
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Old 08-30-2003, 11:12 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I do it myself....not hard to do, plus saves me money....plus my dad uses the oil for boiler fuel. Not worth the hassle of taking it in to get it done.
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Old 08-31-2003, 05:53 PM   #31 (permalink)
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only other thing i can add, to what ahston said pour a quart of oil in the filter never let the oil pump start up dry! and drive on ! oh and the drain pan problem,a metal 55 gallon drum botton will hold all the oil and filter in one shot.

Last edited by mazak; 08-31-2003 at 05:56 PM..
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Old 09-02-2003, 05:10 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Check the old filter to make sure the old gasket came out...
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Old 09-03-2003, 10:50 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Location: cali
Quote:
Check the old filter to make sure the old gasket came out...
good point that we all overlooked krwlz, i made that mistake once, damn gasket was there when i put in the new one and left a gap that leaked oil all over the place. requiring a new oil change, thank god i wasn't using synthetic then
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:14 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by rst
Any advice on how to not make such a huge mess when draining the oil? I can catch the oil coming out of the pan just fine, but the oil filter is in a hard to reach place. When it comes off, oil goes everywhere.
One trick I use is to lay down a few sheets of newspaper under the area I anticipate making a mess in. I live in Vancouver, so its always kind of windy here - to keep the papers from flying around, either use a few extra wrenches, or dampen the work surface so the paper sticks.

Also, the whole magnet-in-the-oil pan thing - wouldn't that just magnetize all the shavings in the oil and make it basically IMPOSSIBLE to get them out once they work their way up into the engine's cylinders?
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Old 09-05-2003, 12:52 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by slant eyes
good point that we all overlooked krwlz, i made that mistake once, damn gasket was there when i put in the new one and left a gap that leaked oil all over the place. requiring a new oil change, thank god i wasn't using synthetic then
Just trying to do my part. Good luck on the change if you havnt done it yet.
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Old 09-08-2003, 10:22 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Watch out for that little washer that goes with drain plug and seats against pan like a little gasket. I lost that in the oil one time, my new oil was slowly leaking out because of it. Luckily I found it and everything worked out.
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Old 09-10-2003, 12:42 PM   #37 (permalink)
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How come no one.. OK.. You SHOULD change your drain plug washer (compression washer) at every oil change.

I don't.. But you should. I do it whenever I remember to. They are only a nickel.

Some drainplugs have a perm washer on it though.
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