Driving lights - Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community

MSD · 04-22-2003, 03:46 PM

My car (1997 Buick Century) has convenient spots in the front bumper where I plan to install driving lights. The problem is that I can't find a good, accessible place to drill through the firewall to run the switch. My uncle mentioned something about using a relay to avoid drilling, but I'm not sure what he meant by that, as I've never seen a relay that isn't hard-wired. Is there any way to install a separate switch for the lights without drilling?

shakran · 04-22-2003, 04:47 PM

why not use one of the openings that are already there? There's all sorts of wiring and cables that goes from the engine bay to the cabin. just slip the wires through one of those holes.

MSD · 04-22-2003, 06:32 PM

It's all plugged up with huge amounts of rubber and sealant. I checked online for remotes, and I can't find anything cheap. Any suggestions on what brand is good or cheap now that I've answered my own question?

shakran · 04-22-2003, 10:03 PM

there should be rubber gaskets somewhere that are in a hole. Just gotta look for 'em. If all holes are sealed, get a knife and carefully poke a hole in the sealant, run your wires, then get some hi-temp caulk and reseal it.

Remote switches are expensive and are a royal PITA. I wouldn't mess with it honestly.

Your other option would be to install a relay. You'd need to have one to go from 65W down to a very low wattage. Run it into one of the highbeam wires, then into the switch wire. When the high beams are energized, it'll flip the relay and switch the drivers on. . . .unfortunately that means you can't use the driving lights when the highbeams are off, which IMHO eliminates the point of having the things in the first place!

Ashton · 04-22-2003, 11:02 PM

Just poke a hole through the wiring harness's seal with a icepick..... and stab the wire through there, remember though... You can't just hook up driving lights to a switch, you need a relay because driving lights suck a lot of juice and will melt the switch over time.. mount the relay in the engine compartment with the main hot wire going to a fuse then to the battery.... then use the switch as a trigger for the relay.

evo_schen · 04-23-2003, 08:59 AM

get the catz hid conversions, no drilling and it'll improve night time visibility.

steveincolumbus · 04-23-2003, 03:32 PM

I agree with Ashton, you shouldn't need a very big hole just enough for a single 18awg wire to go through and put a switch in series with the coiul on a relay to switch on and off the lamps. You can find a relay kit at any autoparts stores for 10 to 15 $'s or depending on what lights you buy they may come with a relay / switch kit, my PIAA's did.

I have had a couple problems with mine between stress cracks and the reflective coating peeling off of them, and they are by far not the cheapest ones on the market either..... But PIAA is really good about replaceing them, they have a lifetime warranty even..... I have a set on the way to replace mine now.... here is what one of them looks like now....

04-22-2003, 03:46 PM	#1 (permalink)
MSD The sky calls to us ... Super Moderator Location: CT	Driving lights My car (1997 Buick Century) has convenient spots in the front bumper where I plan to install driving lights. The problem is that I can't find a good, accessible place to drill through the firewall to run the switch. My uncle mentioned something about using a relay to avoid drilling, but I'm not sure what he meant by that, as I've never seen a relay that isn't hard-wired. Is there any way to install a separate switch for the lights without drilling?

04-22-2003, 04:47 PM	#2 (permalink)
shakran Tone.	why not use one of the openings that are already there? There's all sorts of wiring and cables that goes from the engine bay to the cabin. just slip the wires through one of those holes.

04-22-2003, 06:32 PM	#3 (permalink)
MSD The sky calls to us ... Super Moderator Location: CT	It's all plugged up with huge amounts of rubber and sealant. I checked online for remotes, and I can't find anything cheap. Any suggestions on what brand is good or cheap now that I've answered my own question?

04-22-2003, 10:03 PM	#4 (permalink)
shakran Tone.	there should be rubber gaskets somewhere that are in a hole. Just gotta look for 'em. If all holes are sealed, get a knife and carefully poke a hole in the sealant, run your wires, then get some hi-temp caulk and reseal it. Remote switches are expensive and are a royal PITA. I wouldn't mess with it honestly. Your other option would be to install a relay. You'd need to have one to go from 65W down to a very low wattage. Run it into one of the highbeam wires, then into the switch wire. When the high beams are energized, it'll flip the relay and switch the drivers on. . . .unfortunately that means you can't use the driving lights when the highbeams are off, which IMHO eliminates the point of having the things in the first place!

04-22-2003, 11:02 PM	#5 (permalink)
Ashton PORNHOUND Location: California	Just poke a hole through the wiring harness's seal with a icepick..... and stab the wire through there, remember though... You can't just hook up driving lights to a switch, you need a relay because driving lights suck a lot of juice and will melt the switch over time.. mount the relay in the engine compartment with the main hot wire going to a fuse then to the battery.... then use the switch as a trigger for the relay.

04-23-2003, 08:59 AM	#6 (permalink)
evo_schen Upright Location: colorado	get the catz hid conversions, no drilling and it'll improve night time visibility.

04-23-2003, 03:32 PM	#7 (permalink)
steveincolumbus Psycho Location: BFE, Kentucky	I agree with Ashton, you shouldn't need a very big hole just enough for a single 18awg wire to go through and put a switch in series with the coiul on a relay to switch on and off the lamps. You can find a relay kit at any autoparts stores for 10 to 15 $'s or depending on what lights you buy they may come with a relay / switch kit, my PIAA's did. I have had a couple problems with mine between stress cracks and the reflective coating peeling off of them, and they are by far not the cheapest ones on the market either..... But PIAA is really good about replaceing them, they have a lifetime warranty even..... I have a set on the way to replace mine now.... here is what one of them looks like now....