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Old 10-19-2005, 10:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
Fuckin' A
 
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Location: Lex Vegas
Tranny Trouble (No, Don't Move it to Tilted Sexuality)

First off, I drive a '96 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.1L with a 3 speed auto (not sure of which GM tranny it is, too lazy to look it up, tell me if it'll help to know it). This problem comes in 3 parts:

1) When I first drive my car in the morning when the temp. is relatively low (below 50 F) overnight, the car will start fine, reverse fine, and accelerate fine in the first gear. However, when it is ready to shift into second, the clutch will disengage fine, but it takes a good 10-20 seconds to re-engage and complete the shift to second gear. It is now starting to do the same thing between 2nd and 3rd, although very mildly and the gap is less than a couple of seconds.

2) After shifting through all 3 gears, no matter what temperature, the same thing will happen, but the delay between 1st and 2nd is less than a second, but since the gearing is so big, the car will jolt big time, and sometimes make the tires squeal a bit.

3) Sometimes the transmission will make a loud noise, and the volume of the sound increases with the engine speed. It's kind of a mix between a manifold with a small crack and a grinding sound (like a growl). Sometimes it will stop after I've driven for about 15 minutes.

What's the diagnosis, and is there a quick-fix???
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Old 10-19-2005, 10:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quick fix: check your fluid level.

If that isn't it trade it in.
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Old 10-19-2005, 10:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Location: In my angry-dome.
I don't know that vehicle but #3 and the relation to temperature sounds like the pump is failing or the fluid is low. The whine/growl is indicative of the pump, and cold temps mean more viscous fluid which won't pump as easily. The combination means lower flow at the valve body and it won't actuate normally.

The hard shifting in #2 sounds like it may be on its last legs, or someone used the wrong fluid. Type F instead of Dex?

Have you changed the fluid? If not it could be worth a try. Check it for color and smell. If it's burnt it'll only cause more problems. Check the filter for friction material. If you already changed fluid make sure it's the right type. Avoid friction modifiers that claim to improve shifting or to bring the wrong type of fluid into spec.

Flushes are a common precursor to trans problems. They often knock all kinds of junk loose and contaminate areas that are tough to clean without disassembly.
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Old 10-19-2005, 10:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Location: Lex Vegas
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Pony
Quick fix: check your fluid level.

If that isn't it trade it in.
Already did the quick fix. Can't trade it in, only bitch at my Dad for buying me a total piece of shit without even looking at another car (literally, it was the first and only car we looked at, he looked under the hood and under the car, noted that it was just like his Intrigue, test drove it for a mile, let me test drive it for a mile, wrote a check, and I drove it home. The whole car shopping experience lasted less than two hours, and most of that was paperwork).

Yeah, another friend suggested that I take the pan out and dump any metal shavings, and do a fluid change. I'm more wondering if there's maybe an overbearing mechanical problem.
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Old 10-19-2005, 11:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Location: In my angry-dome.
It wouldn't hurt. Metal shavings beyond a little sludge would mean issues.

The previous owner may have changed it (or had it changed) and used the wrong fluid. Iffy Lube is a great business builder for trans shops.
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