Tilted Automotive

No emission testing in FL

 

Actually that is incorrect. They started several years back in Miami-Dade County. I don't think it has gone much furthur than that. But still, I wanted to make sure you were aware, and since I didn't know where you live, I had to be sure.

 

only if you get caught

 

The way this is running now I'm sure the pollution is huge.
The other thing is that I remember in the 80's when I was importing "grey market" cars from Germany we tested a few of them for "polluting emissions" as is", then after conversion and against contemporary American models and found that they were very close in emissions.
I tend to keep my cars running well, tuned up and maintained...too many don't bother.

 

I'm glad to hear it DAKA. There are too many out there who either don't maintain their cars in proper working order, or just don't care that they have altered their car and are now poluting more than their car is supposed to. Have you been able to get a diagnostic code from the place that looked at your truck and mentioned the carb issue?

 

Seeing as this was the closest I could find to a tilted automotive on the new forum I figured I'd add this in. Just installed a 3.5" lift on my Wrangler, and let me say it's been one hell of an experience. Hours of reading Wrangler forums about various lifts, what height to go for, tires to use, which manufacturer to buy from, as well as nearly a decade of home garage mechanic experience (that involved working on every single part in a variety of vehicles) .... still did not prepare me. It's been headaches and heartaches, punctuated by moments of sheer joy. And even though she currently has a death wobble from hell if I break 40 mph, I still love her. Working on fixing the dw, being a pain to track down.

 

Around here it's very common to lift the body to give clearance for bigger tires without affecting the suspension's geometry (too much).
Best of luck with your truck.

 

EOD...
The first thing I'd check would be the steering dampner. 3.5" isn't a drastic lift, but may be enough to require an upgrade.

 

I've been reading a lot of jeep forums for info on the dw, seems the entire front end is just a collection of systems sitting on the edge of instability and all it takes is 1 or 2 small things getting out of whack to set it wobbling. I had the dw before I lifted it, the lift just aggravated it. I was just living with it, being careful not to go so fast that it would happen, but now its bad enough I'm gonna have to track it down. Probably gonna have to replace all the various bushings and pivot joints, as well as the stabilizer, and make sure my tires are balanced spot on.

 

Taller/Bigger tires have to be more accurately balanced than smaller, here with larger tires (36"+) they are often balanced before mounting them on the wheels and then the wheel with the tire is balanced again.

 

ALABAMAMAN19
Well, since the front engine bearing was leaking, I changed the timing belt, (the old one looked good, but I changed it anyway), the water pump, (also looke ok, but changed) Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and the CARB (it now runs great), BUT, since the cable (for the throtle) needed to be rerouted I now need to find a way to have a "speeded up" idle for when the a/c is on...I can't use the old solenoid, its nowhere near the cable...any suggestions?

 

Timing belts are one of those things that have to be replaced before it wears out so it's wise to stick to the guidelines on when to replace. If a timing belt breaks it can cause major damage to the engine usually leaving the owner with two choices either to get a new engine or a new vehicle.
In the past I waxed the ignition system (coil, cap and wires) with old style car wax, it makes a difference when driving in very wet conditions like streams
The wax will waterproof all connections in the shielding and therefore lessen the chances of the "spark" "leaking out" (ie. jumping from the wrong end of the plug to the engineblock).

 

Tilted Automotive has been reduced to a single thread? Well that seems pretty lame. Someone needs to start a build-thread or something.

 

i build transmissions. you??

 

I used to build cars now I just seem to build collections of parts. And those parts seem to build collections of dust.

 

sounds like my garage

 

It's "Tilted Gear." We don't have to squeeze all of the car talk into a single thread. What was your favorite build, Cavi Mike? Start a brag thread about it. I love seeing and commenting on that stuff.

 

My favorite build is kinda stuck between two ideas, I'm not sure what I want to do. I look for inspiration in others builds. I also look for motivation, I seem to have lost almost all of it the past couple years.

 

This is something car mod related that I'm pondering now so if you have opinions or any comments, please post 'em up!

The compressor map comparison below tempted me very much when I recently saw it and started cranking some numbers. I have two of the GT2860RS's now and this really got me wondering if I should "upgrade" to two of the GTX2863R's. These "X" turbo variations are a new 11 blade billet compressor wheel and housing design by Garrett that is finally trickling down to turbo sizes I like (small'ish, responsive). It's nice that they would interchange with and fit into my current exhaust housings (TiAL stainless housings that I paid extra for since I really like 'em).



What's causing my doubt is deciding to either do this to my street car (posted on page 1 of this thread) that I also use for track days (roadcourse type) or leave that car as it is and use the moolah to start building a dedicated track car. After a few days of drooling about the above maps, I'm leaning toward the dedicated track car. If someone could pound some sense into my head, that could be helpful

 

Here's the latest on the Isuzu pup.
After changing the complete "front" of the engine...Carb (to Weber) timoing belt, water pump, hoses, fan belts, dist. cap wires plugs and ??? else, it was running great, but it developed a rear main seal leak ....F**K, so now out comes the engine as there is no other way to get at it...don't ask...changed the rear main seal and pan gasket, clutch was very good so I left it alone...back into the truck...great BUT, WTF more oil on the ground. It seems that these vehicles have an oil line that goes from the FUEL PUMP TO ? and when the fuel pump goes bad it leaks oil from this hose....so now I get a fuel pump and HOLY S**T, it looks like bear to change the fuel pump....aagggrrrhhhh....
more later....